The loss of Elmwood Avenue was Snyder’s gain after restaurateur Rin Suphankomut arrived in Snyder. His versions of tom kha ($ 6), coconut milk soup with ginger and lime leaf, and tom yum ($ 6), the tangy lemongrass and chili soup, are definitive.
Moo ping, grilled marinated pork skewers with tamarind sauce ($ 10.50) and an idealized coconut shrimp ($ 8.50) are exceptional appetizers. The ubiquitous Pad Thai ($ 15.50) is smoky, balanced, and unsweetened like most versions.
(Heatseekers: Suphankomut has an unannounced homemade hot sauce you should try, delivering a brilliant, flavorful burst of heat that wears off before it hurts.)
Thai Orchid (take out only), 416 Evans St., Williamsville, (thaiorchidbuffalo.com)
Amherst Thai veteran takes me back to tod mun (fish patties, $ 5.95), the appetizer of fried discs of fish sausage sprinkled with chopped long beans, cucumber, crushed peanuts and sweet and sour sauce .
Since there’s no seating in the dining area, I recommend hammering the Crispy Catfish Salad ($ 10.95) as soon as you bring it to your car. This is a minced catfish that has been rolled in seasoned flour and fried, then presented on a green salad with fresh mango, red pepper and cashews, in a tangy dressing of the lime and fish sauce.